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rgwm
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| Posted: 28 August 2008 at 23:00 | IP Logged
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I need to change the auxiliary tensioner on my 200+K mile JTD Sportwagon - 'cos its absolutely knackered. But to do this I have to remove the crank pulley - the big bottom one that seems to be a two-part bonded thing. E-learn helpfully tells you to remove the six ribe bolts and remove the pulley.......yeah, right 
Removed the bolts, no real problem...but absolutely no movement in the pulley.....I've sprayed it liberally with WD40, in the hope that overnight it will fall off all on its own......but failing that, anyone had any success doing this job? I've pondered heating the centre of the pulley with the gas-axe, but suspect it will knacker the rubber bonding....
Any thoughts welcome!
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Chris155
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| Posted: 28 August 2008 at 23:34 | IP Logged
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hit it with a bigger hammer.
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russ21282
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| Posted: 29 August 2008 at 01:32 | IP Logged
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Does the crank pulley need to be removed to change the aux tensioner?
Surely as the tensioner does the tensioning, the belt goes over the rest of the pulleys and then the tensioner takes up the slack.
I may be wrong, i did get the garage to do mine  but i think the logic makes sense! 
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rgwm
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| Posted: 29 August 2008 at 01:39 | IP Logged
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russ21282 wrote:
Does the crank pulley need to be removed to change the aux tensioner?
Surely as the tensioner does the tensioning, the belt goes over the rest of the pulleys and then the tensioner takes up the slack.
I may be wrong, i did get the garage to do mine but i think the logic makes sense! |
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Unfortunately the bolts that secure the tensioner are strategically located behind the crank pulley.....
hammer escalation may be the way to go, Chris, but the rubber damping does tend to reduce the effectiveness of even uncontrolled violence......
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russ21282
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| Posted: 29 August 2008 at 11:16 | IP Logged
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rgwm wrote:
Unfortunately the bolts that secure the tensioner are strategically located behind the crank pulley.....
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ohhhhhh a bit like thermostat bolt being strategically located behind the unmovable egr cooler!  why don't they make it easier to fix these things!
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hutch
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| Posted: 29 August 2008 at 18:08 | IP Logged
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Richard,
i'm sure i did mine without removing the pulley.
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cannonballuk
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Russ,
Yep, another one of the jobs I needed to do on my 140K 2.4JTD SplurtWagon.
For me, once the aux belt was removed and the X6 ribe bolts holding the Aux pulley to the crank timing pulley were removed. It just required a little bit of help - pull both sides of the aux pulley towards you, while another uses light taps with a rubber hammer. Bit confined I know, but after several taps here and there, it was off.
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2.4 JTD SportsWagon
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cannonballuk
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Oops - rgwm
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rgwm
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Update.....after following Chris's advice of bigger hammer - and the reverse psychology of hitting it "on" rather than "off", eventually got a slight movement in it....after another 15 - 20 minutes got the pulley off 
A few minutes work and the tensioner came off....but of course the bad news wasn't over....the bolt that secures / acts as pivot for the tensioner - that isn't mentioned at all in the E-learn write-up had sheared - causing the problem that I thought was down to a failed tensioner...and it had sheared flush with the casting on the block - and you can't get a drill at it without dropping the engine.....
Which is why I'm currently most of the way through a bottle of red.........
Not a happy bunny 
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wrinx
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Booger...if you're dropping the engine it would be a good time to replace the clutch!
...would one of those 90degree drills squeeze in?
wrinx
Edited by wrinx on 01 September 2008 at 20:29
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Chris155
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rgwm wrote:
Update.....after following Chris's advice of bigger hammer - and the reverse psychology of hitting it "on" rather than "off", eventually got a slight movement in it....after another 15 - 20 minutes got the pulley off
A few minutes work and the tensioner came off....but of course the bad news wasn't over....the bolt that secures / acts as pivot for the tensioner - that isn't mentioned at all in the E-learn write-up had sheared - causing the problem that I thought was down to a failed tensioner...and it had sheared flush with the casting on the block - and you can't get a drill at it without dropping the engine.....
Which is why I'm currently most of the way through a bottle of red.........
Not a happy bunny |
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Sorry mate thought you'd understand what I meant when I said it.
Have you tried dropping it off the offside front mount and offside top mount to gain access? Its suprising how much movement there is on it.
Bad luck BTW
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Oily
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Isn't the tensioner on a mounting plate?Mine did exactly the same thing,bolt sheared off
I just un-bolted the aircon comp. from the mounting,then un-bolted the mounting plate from the engine,wiggled it about a bit from under the car.
Then drill out the offending bolt,mine was easy as soon as the drill bit took a bite it screwed it all the way out! 
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Alfa Romeo forum : Technical (156)
Topic: 2.4 JTD crank pulley
