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Subject Topic: "How To" - Elec Rear Window Conversion Post ReplyPost New Topic
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TazzyK
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Posted: 25 May 2009 at 14:52 | IP Logged Quote TazzyK

"How To" Convert Your Manual Rear Windows To Electric

I fitted my leather interior not so long ago, but neglected fitting the door cards because I didn’t want manual windows any more and the thought of drilling through the leather door cards just didn’t appeal. I got hold of everything I needed to convert the rears to electric soon after, but the parts have just lain about for ages, partially because the original door cards were a good match to the leather interior, but just not leather!.... I finally braved it and tackled the task yesterday !

Parts needed – 2 rear door switches (these are exactly the same as the front passenger side switch so don't go paying over the odds for the rear ones), complete wiring for both rear doors (make sure it's the correct wiring for you car as the connecting plugs changed at some point), and the all important rear window motors / regulators:




Also needed is the complete wiring loom for the front driver's door so that you can control all four windows from the driver's seat – the rears will NOT work without this switch fitted as you will see later:




I started by changing the wiring from the front driver's side door first. There was no real reason to start from this point, but it seemed to make sense because I thought (just in case) if I couldn't get the rears to work, then at least (hopefully), I could still use the 'new' loom to control the fronts without having to change this back – this paid off !






Changing the wiring isn't difficult, but can be a little fiddly. Small hands help a lot! It was simply a case of unplugging all the old wiring, detaching it from the door (it's held in place by some clips) and refitting the new one. If you remember what route the old wiring took, it is impossible to get the new wiring wrong. Just remember to follow the old wirings route AND attach / clip the wiring back into place using the old clips (your 'new' wiring may have the clips already fitted, but unlikely as it's easier to leave them in place and rip the wiring out, however, you will need to remove yours anyway and therefore you can attach these to the new wiring with insulation tape). It is important to reattach the wiring to the door in its original position so that it cannot become trapped anywhere when operating the windows.




At this point, I fitted the front switch just to check the front windows still worked (I have a habit of cocking things up when trying something for the first time! ). Front windows still worked fine .

With the relatively easy bit done, I unclipped the front switch and proceeded to the driver's side rear door. I knew this would be more challenging!




Off came the rear door card and membrane. I also removed the old window mechanism before changing the wiring. In hindsight, I should have swapped the wiring out before touching the mechanism (which is what I did on the other side) – you live and learn. I was working alone, and the rear window (with the mechanism removed) was taped to the car in its upmost position to prevent it from falling, and allowing me to carry on with the job of swapping the looms over.

Changing the wiring in the rear door isn't difficult, but the door lock has 2 connectors and these are pretty difficult to get to. Best way (I found) was to unscrew the door look (3 torx screws), unmount the door release (chrome door handle you open the door with), and detach one of the rods (the lower one) so that you can pull the lock close enough (without further dismantling) to unplug the old wiring and reattach the new ones. Unplugging the wiring with the lock in places isn't a problem, but plugging the new wiring back in is!

With the wiring in place, you next have to decide which of the two motors is correct for which side . To the trained eye, it might be obvious but they looked more or less same to me. And don't forget, it's not simply a case of swapping out an old motor for a new one, so you won't know exactly how / where to bolt it, but if you remember how the old mechanism was fitted (and compare the old mechanism to the new motorised one to find out which looks like the right one for the side) you can't go far wrong.

So, with the correct motor fitted (first time round might I add !) and everything plugged in (glass still not attached) I decided to test it. I had to bring the motor to its lowest position to attach the glass and so I fitted the rear switch for a quick test:




Ignition on, test the switch and.... nothing ! I know I said earlier that if I failed to get the rear windows working, I'd just keep everything as it is, but too much work had already gone into this, and I was in no mood to change the rear mechanism again, especially after I'd already been half finished by the blistering heat !

But panic not... having previously studied the fuse locations for both my car and my brothers, I knew there was a fuse in the glove compartment for the job. Just for your information, older cars and newer cars are wired slightly differently in terms of fuses – one of them (older cars?) has one fuse controlling 3 windows and a separate fuse for one of the rear windows, and one of them (newer ones?) has 1 fuse for both fronts, and a separate fuse each for the rears, or vice versa - can’t remember which is which!

Anyhow, I proceeded to place a 20amp fuse (it was a colour-coded slot) in the one and only empty slot, only it was in such an awkward place, the glove box had to come out! With the fuse in place, I tested the rear motor again and... still nothing!

At this point, I had what can only be described as a minor heart attack . Then a brainwave.... Why don't I connect the front switch and try it from there???? So I did and hey presto it worked! I removed the rear switch and tried it from the front again (can't remember why I did that) and it didn't work, so now you know you need to have BOTH switches plugged in for the rear windows to work. I'm not even sure if I needed to use that fuse now or not... I didn't bother taking it back out to try. I was just glad to have it working!

Anyhow, lowered the motor down, attached the glass, and was ready to move on to the other side. I decided to fit the door cars to this side of the car first though before going onto the other side:






With this side done and fully working, I replaced the door card on the front passenger side and then started on the passenger side rear.

The passenger side rear was pretty straightforward as I knew exactly what to expect, what needed to be done, and how I would tackle it. I still had a couple of scary moments though... Firstly, when refitting the wiring to the door lock, I found two brown wires chopped on one of the plugs (uppermost). I didn't notice these before and so I panicked a bit thinking I'd have to get a new loom, but the ends were so neatly cut, I decided to investigate the old wiring by taking off the insulation / covering. It is normal, for some reason, for this plug to have two unused brown wires that are just insulated away (about 10cm in lenght), so if you do come across these wires, don't panic!

The 2nd scary moment was when the glass would only go back half way up. I first thought the motor was faulty, but then realised the glass had come out of the guide, so I fixed this and everything worked just fine!

So there you have it.... Manual rear windows converted to electric, and door cards fitted to match the interior:








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156-2.5-V6
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Posted: 25 May 2009 at 16:00 | IP Logged Quote 156-2.5-V6

Excellent stuff Tazzy

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bezste
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Posted: 26 May 2009 at 09:05 | IP Logged Quote bezste

Well done Tazzy. Excellent write-up. Will prove very useful for anyone doing anything at all with leccy windows on a 156.

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Posted: 26 May 2009 at 14:42 | IP Logged Quote CJ Romeo

Bigger job than I thought it would be be, but all the better for doing it properly

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TazzyK
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Posted: 26 May 2009 at 19:56 | IP Logged Quote TazzyK

Thanks .

Hope it will help others.

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